Choose the right razor in five steps? Could it be possible, At least as we see it, there are five distinguishing features of razors that set them apart and that can be important when choosing. Although we have chosen a certain order here, it is of course up to you what you prioritize the most and then based on that choose the one that suits you best.
But let’s not do anything hasty, but start from the beginning.
What is a razor? What is a safety razor? What is a shavette?
A brief summary of what a razor is. A razor usually has a sharp blade blade made of carbon steel. In most cases, the blade can be folded into a handle that protects both the blade and the surroundings. The handle that the blade folds into can be made of a variety of materials. Metal, wood, and synthetic materials are common today. But there are also nobler materials.
Razor for shaving is something that has been used for hundreds if not thousands of years. The razors we use today have about 250 years of development. Even if it has largely looked and works in the same way then as it does now. A folding knife blade made of carbon steel whose edge needs to be sharpened by a shaft before use. For a long time, the razor was primarily the barber’s tool. A barber was and is a very skilled professional who can handle the sharp razor with a good hand. It should be added that today, due to hygienic reasons, shavette, a razor with interchangeable blades, is most often used instead of an actual razor.
A safety planer consists of one or more parts. In some cases, the parts may be removable. Usually a safety planer consists of two or three parts. A safety razor usually uses a double razor blade, a razor blade with two sharp long sides. Nowadays, double razor blades are usually made of stainless steel. It requires less maintenance than a razor.
For those who want to read more about safety razors: What is a safety razor? We give you the answer
For those who are more curious about the history of the safety razor: A modern safety razor, 260 years of design and development!
A shavette is, as previously mentioned, a knife but with a replaceable razor blade instead of the fixed knife found on a razor. In short, a shavette is the middle ground between a safety razor and a razor. In addition, a good transition if you shave with a safety razor and want to try a razor but without all the extra work it entails. The shavette is used either together with special shavette blades that have a sharpened edge or double razor blades that are broken along the long side to get two long blades with a sharpened edge.
Now that we’ve gone through what separates a razor, a safety razor, and shavette, let’s dive deeper into the parts of the different parts. We will start with the blade since that part is the one with the most diverse variants. Different types of materials for the blade, the width of the blade, its tip and grinding are things we go through.
The blade of the razor in detail
A razor can be a big investment and something that should last a long time. Therefore, it is important that you are satisfied and want to use it every day. In order for you to want that, it is important that you find the one that suits you best. Therefore, it can be good to know the different parts that are important to find the right knife.
Of course, the knife blade itself is an important part of this. But there are a number of different factors that distinguish different knife blades. Finding the right razor blade can be a crucial factor in finding the right razor for you both now and in the future.
First choice, carbon steel or stainless steel, which should I choose?
A first important issue is the material of the blade.
Carbon steel is the most classic material and the one that is also considered to be the best. This is simply due to the sharpness it is possible to achieve on the edge, which is considered to be significantly better than other comparable materials. A disadvantage of carbon steel, however, is that it is sensitive to water. The risk of erosion and rust is great. Therefore, it is important to always wipe the blade gently against a clean and dry towel used specifically for the purpose. In addition, the edge needs to be trimmed before each shave and sharpened occasionally. Carbon steel is also the most common material.
Stainless steel is an alternative to carbon steel. The advantage is that it is not as sensitive to water and therefore less sensitive to erosion and rust. There is also a need to maintain with a skirt even if it is not as extensive. The disadvantage is that the sharpness of the edge is not as sharp as with carbon steel. In addition, a more unusual material for blades. It does occur, but carbon steel is a more common and appreciated alternative. Much because it is believed that with carbon steel, the shave can be both closer and better.
The material we recommend is carbon steel. There is more maintenance, admittedly, but at the same time it is part of the craft. If you feel that the maintenance is too much, there is always the shavette.
Once you have decided what material the blade should have, you should then look at its width.
Second choice, how wide should the blade be?
An additional way, or one of the most common ways, one of three to classify a knife blade is to talk about its width. The width we are talking about is the distance between the top of the blade and the edge of the edge. Common terms mentioned are usually 3/8″ (inch), 5/8″ or 6/8″. Other measurements also occur. What you mean in short is, as I said, the width of the blade.
5/8″ is considered the most common and the one that suits most people. Will be great for doing a regular shave of the entire face and neck with good results. The relatively large size of the blade makes it easier to shave with as not much pressure is needed. The difficult thing can be to access in particularly difficult places. In addition, a good width for a beginner in wet shaving. At the same time, it is also very much about what you think works best for you.
6/8″ is another common width and much appreciated. The difference is not very big but can be slightly heavier. If you have a very thick beard with thick beard hairs, this may be preferable.
3/8″ is another common width. Here the blade is narrower and can be slightly more difficult to handle as it requires even more precision and experience. At the same time, the narrower blade can make it easier to access where other wider blades can’t. For example, under the nose, around the ears or similar. Since this blade is slightly lighter, some adjustment to the technique may be required. The increased possibility of precision also means that shaving can be even more precise.
Other widths also occur but these are the most common. Our recommendation is to start with a 5/8″. Once you have decided what width suits you, the next step is to look at what tip the knife should have. There are a few different choices, all of which have their pros and cons.
Third choice, which tip should the blade have?
Now that you know what material the knife is made of and how wide it is, you should choose which tip the knife should have. There are a number of different ones to choose from. As with the material and width, the different tips have their pros and cons and suit different people. As always, of course, it’s ultimately up to you and what you like.
A straight tip gives a knife with high precision and very good ability to get contours and lines in a good way. At the same time, it can be difficult to handle because it requires an experienced and steady hand. Nothing that is directly recommended for someone who is above it.
Round tip is much more proportional than straight tip. The risk of injury is somewhat reduced, which is why this type is better suited for most people. The precision will not be as good, but you will still get a good shave. Especially for a beginner, this type of lace is recommended.
French lace, reminiscent of a slightly convex shape where the bottom is wider than the top. A good intermediate position between round and straight tip. Provides slightly better opportunities for precision but without the risk of damage being great. For those who want to be able to get something nicer lines and also a little easier to access in hard-to-reach places.
Spanish lace, a concave tip and the opposite pole of French lace. The type of tip that provides perhaps the absolute best opportunity for precision and trimming. Also makes it easy to access in hard-to-reach places. The disadvantage, however, is that this is considered the least safe tip to use.
Fourth choice, what sharpening should the blade have?
One last thing, but just as important as the others, is the sharpening of the blade. Something that is also talked about a lot, especially three different types of grinding, flat grind, full hollow grind and half hollow.
Flat grind or completely straight grinding means that there is a straight, slightly angled line from the top to the edge of the knife. This was the most original type of grinding but today is somewhat more unusual due to product development. Provides a very sturdy and resistant knife blade. Excellent for precision shaving, but for regular shaving it is not used as much anymore.
Full hollow grind means that a larger part of the blade is removed and the narrow part of the edge is wider than the thicker part that tapers just below the top of the blade. This gives a knife blade that is slightly easier to control and that overall gives a very good and close shave. The type of sharpening that is said to give the best and most close shave of the three options. Very kind to the skin and forgiving.
Half hollow grind has a slightly longer wider part than a full hollow grid. Gives a slightly stronger and more stable blade but that will not shave as close to the skin as a full hollow grind blade does. It is still a very good blade with fairly high security. Also kind to the skin and not as aggressive. This type of sharpening is the one recommended for a beginner. This is because you get a blade with good durability but which can still be sharp enough to give a good close shave.
Handle
Unlike the blade, the handle is almost always the same. The big difference is in the choice of materials. A choice that is almost always more aesthetic than directly functional.
When it comes to materials, there is everything from simpler synthetic materials that are made to last a long time and often also mimic more exclusive materials such as ebony, other precious woods, ivory and other types of horn. Different types of horn and precious woods are also sometimes found as genuine materials. Then at a higher price. Whatever material you choose, we’re sure you’ll find one that’s right for you.
Which razor should I choose?
As mentioned earlier when it comes to which razor you choose, it is ultimately a matter of your own liking and taste, what you think suits you. There is no absolute right or wrong.
However, for someone who is going to buy their first knife, we would recommend the following. The recommendation is based on what is assumed to be at least what is best suited for a beginner based on the different characteristics.
The knife blade should be 5/8″ wide and of a longer model. The blade should also have a rounded tip and half hollow grind. In addition, be made of carbon steel. That will mean a razor that suits most people.
At the same time, if your beard is very thick with thick beard hairs, it may be worth looking at one with 6/8″ blades right away. You will then get a blade that is slightly heavier and will be able to more easily shave off your thick beard hairs.
